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15 Şubat 2012 Çarşamba

LCD and OLED

LCD vs LED Technology

LED is a new technology in TVs and Computer Monitors and distinctly different from LCD or TFT. LCD requires a backlight, LED does not. LCD uses silicon-based devices, LED uses organic plastic-based devices. LCD has low contrast, LED has very high contrast. LCD is now very old technology and will be replaced by the new organic LED quite quickly over next few years.

http://vtcdn.com/sites/default/files/images/2007/10/15/oled-1.jpg

What is an OLED?
OLED (Organic Light Emitting Diodes) is a flat display technology, made by placing a series of organic thin films between two conductors. When electrical current is applied, a bright light is emitted. Because OLEDs produce (emit) light they do not require a backlight. This means that OLEDs can be made very thin and very power efficient when compared to LCD (which do require a white backlight).

OLEDs vs LCDs


OLEDs have the following advantages over today's flat-panel tech (LCD or plasma):
  • Low power consumption - OLEDs are a far better choice for portable devices. It also makes OLEDs much more environmental friendly, and a candidate to be the white-light "bulb" of the future
  • Faster refresh rate and better contrast.
  • Greater brightness - The screens are brighter, and have a fuller viewing angle.
  • Exciting displays - new types of displays, that we do not have today, like ultra-thin, flexible or transparent displays.
  • Better durability - OLEDs are very durable and can operate in a broader temperature range.
  • Lighter weight - the screen can be made very thin, and can even be 'printed' on flexible surfaces.

28 Aralık 2011 Çarşamba

LCD HDTV 2009 Guide #1

 
Shopping for an LCD HDTV?

Know Your Stuff!!





What's LCD HDTV?

Much like other LCD devices you're more used to, such as alarm clocks and computer monitors - LCD televisions also utilize a technology based on polarized light, where two polarized panels are located in front of and in back of a thin layer of liquid crystal gel, that is divided up into individual pixels. Each pixel is activated individually thanks to two axis of wires, which polarizes them accordingly.

"Ghosting" used to be a noticeable problem with older model LCDs. It's a term that describes how certain bright parts of a movie would "hang around" for a few seconds, or even display a trail as it moved across the screen. This is due to brighter pixels that would 'maintain' light for a time period of 20 milliseconds, while undergoing the transition to another color or light intensity for another 15-20 milliseconds of time. Since the inception of LCD televisions, that time was shortened to only 8 milliseconds.

In order to improve the quality of LCD televisions going forward, a viable strategy is to increase the refresh rate (the 'invisible' line that scrolls and refreshes the screen constantly), and to reduce the backlight response of the LCD screen itself.



Interlaced vs. Progressive LCD HDTVs


Another factor in LCD HDTVs are the scan rate: which include an interlaced and a progressive picture. Have you ever seen video tape footage of a PC screen? If so, you may have noticed how the screen seems to "sweep" up and down constantly, almost like a slide show. That is an interlaced picture. Similarly, interlaced HDTVs (and monitors) refresh every other line of the picture, every other time. The process is unseen by the naked eye. However, interlaced screens are known to cause "eye distress," which your mother warned you about when you sat too close to the TV set. Progressive sets, on the other hand, refresh every line every single time, much like one long "sweep" down the screen after another. Progressive pictures are easier on the eyes, display a smooth viewing image with less "jaggies," and consequentially, cost a little more.



What is DLP HDTV?

DLP or "Digital Light Processing" is a rear projection technology for television. DLP HDTVs are typically less expensive and more lightweight that LCD or Plasma TVs, immune from screen burn-in & color decay, and able to represent high speed images without ghosting or blurring effects that other television technologies suffer from. DLP TVs are known to have excellent color and grayscale representation. LED DLP TVs never need a lamp replacement. Note that non-LED DLP's (typically older models, as most today are LED) *will* need lamp replacements after several years of usage, and the cost can be rather high. Overall, an LED DLP HDTV is a worthy investment for its long life, great color quality and slim size. Avoid older DLP HDTVs, as they're known to suffer from a condition known as the "rainbow effect," in which bright white tones projected over black backgrounds appear in a multi-color effect. Newer televisions do not have this issue.



LCD HDTV Aspect Ratio

You may have already seen terms here, such as "16:9 aspect ratio," and had no clue what it meant. Aspect ratio simply means "units high x units wide." So, a 16:9 HDTV is 16 units wide x 9 units high ("units" meaning the measurement of an original video production, a broadcasting term). Wide sets allow you to see widescreen movies in their "natural mode," without the letterbox crop bars. They also allow you to watch the older, non-narrow shows as well, albeit with the black crop bars on the left and right. Overall, the newer, wider 16:9 is the winner over the older 4:3 "standard" television screens for their breadth of view, and ability to watch older formats, as well!



What Does "720" or "1080" HDTV Mean?


HDTVs are always defined by the resolution, or the number of vertical pixels that they have. For instance, a 720 HDTV has 720 pixels per line going up and down (rather, vertically) the screen itself, and across 1,280 lines going horizontally to the other end of the screen. In contrast, a 1080 HDTV has 1080 pixels per line going vertically, with 1,920 lines going across, horizontally. In these cases, the 1080 HDTV set is the better of the two - since more pixels means more detail. Note that the resolution and the actual size of the screen in inches are not directly related: therefore, a 22" 1080p HDTV and a 22" 720p HDTV can both exist (don't assume that smaller screens are always 720p!)



1080p vs. 1080i HDTV...Which One Wins?

Naturally, you'll want to go with the best option for the most technologically long-lasting, satisfying, high quality LCD television set; especially in a consumer market where things keep changing so rapidly.

The question of 1080p and 1080i comes up in this case. What does it mean? In short, these are two popular HDTV video modes found in the newer model TV sets. 1080"p" represents "Progressive Scan." This means that the pictures on a 1080p television screen are drawn with a moving line, similarly to the way computer monitors work.

Conclusively: the 1080p HDTV is the superior product, although it is the more expensive choice. If you're going for a somewhat larger screen, you'll appreciate the 1080p's progressive nature. It's always best practice to go with the "newer" format; which in this case, is the 1080p.

There is one important thing to mention here: if you're going for larger screens, there's no doubt that you should only consider a 1080p...however, if your screen is 50" or less, there will be no visible difference with the additional pixels that come with the 1080p. So, stick with a 720p for a screen that's 50" or less -- you'll save a lot of money without sacrificing quality.

Let's review the pros and cons of the 1080p, vs. that of the older 1980i format. Despite the fact that 1080i has its own set of proficiencies, the 1080p is the superior technology:


1080p HDTV Pros (vs. 1080i)
  • Simpy put, it's newer than 1080i. It will, in fact, eventually become the "standard."
  • Has twice the resolution of a 1080i signal, technically capable of displaying every single pixel of an HD broadcast.
  • Progressive TV sets (flat LCDs, Plasmas) are already progressive in nature, can use progressive scan as a default (no need to convert from another type).
  • Conveys all "lines" in a single sweep, resulting in a smoother, crisper image

1080p HDTV Cons (vs. 1080i)
  • Has half the frame rate of 1080i
  • More expensive than 1080i sets
  • The difference in resolution between 1080p and 1080i may not be seen by the naked eye, except on larger TV sets

17 Aralık 2011 Cumartesi

Samsung Widget TV

Samsung Internet TV

Samsung’s new online trickery is called Internet@TV. Press a remote button and your favoured widgets appear along the bottom of the screen. Once online there’s no denying that it’s a compelling way to access the web. There’s no need to boot up a PC, just choose your widgets from the TV’s gallery and personalise them to show local weather or news feeds and your own Flickr gallery. The widgets open in a panel on the left, which does eat up your screen, but the size of the TV feed can be adjusted to suit.


Internet features in Samsung TV is not all that great in 2009. With Widgets (small applications) you can link to some city to find weather conditions and forecasts for 5 days. With the stock widget you can enter your stock or mutual funds and get quotes. There is an image widget that lets you upload your photos and review. There is a widget to receive the news and most important news. Widgets are a little slow to boot but you can leave them open on the side of the TV and shrink the TV picture to be full image beside the widget or have the widget overlay the TV with the push of a button.

I have not seen the ability to download a movie and I hope that someone will write a widget to do it soon. You can go to Yahoo Widgets and download any number of interesting new applications shortly. I use a box (Voodoo) for downloading and streaming movies. Someday soon, you will not need a separate box.

The wireless connection requires a Samsung USB connected to a USB port available. It sells for $ 80 and is back ordered for 4 weeks. Use a wired connection, but I will go wireless when there is a good reason.



Samsung Widget TV

Widget it up

Your widgets sit at the bottom of the screen. Hit a remote control button to call them up, then scroll to select



Coming soon

Are Flickr, news and weather widgets perhaps not enough? Among others to appear soon are YouTube and Ebay apps according to Yahoo


Samsung TV with Widgets Feature...

21 Ekim 2011 Cuma

240Hz LCD TVs: What you need to know


Every year it seems there's a new catchy spec in the HDTV realm everybody likes to talk about. A few years back it was 1080p resolution. Then we heard about 120Hz, which is supposed to reduce motion blur in fast-moving images on LCD TVs. Well, this year, the latest and greatest spec is 240Hz, which is supposed to do what 120Hz does, but better.

Not too long ago, our video guru David Katzmaier gave his initial impressions on 240Hz in a post titled "Is 240Hz worth waiting for?" When he wrote that piece, he'd just seen his first 240Hz TV in action and wasn't sold on the new technology. Now that he's reviewed four 240Hz HDTVs and has a fifth review (the LG 47LH55) in the works, he's still not sold, but he admits the verdict isn't totally clear-cut.

Part of the problem is that there's a difference between what your eye sees in everyday material you watch and objective testing done with test patterns. As Katzmaier notes in his post, "Standard LCD and plasma TVs refresh the screen 60 times per second, or 60Hz, which is plenty fast enough to eliminate flicker and create the illusion of motion from a series of still images. In fact, most sources sent to your display arrive at the nominal rate of 30 frames per second, and each frame is repeated once by the television to achieve 60 total fps."


For most people, including me and Mr. Katzmaier, it's very difficult to see the impact that "faster" LCD sets have on picture quality. We spent some time in our AV lab watching various source material from 120Hz TVs and 240Hz models and it's really hard to detect any difference (it's hard to detect any difference between 120Hz and 60Hz models, too). To be clear, I'm referring here to motion-blur reduction because of faster refresh rates, not to dejudder processing, which smooths out motion and makes film-based material shot at 24fps look more video-like. When dejudder is engaged, you can easily spot its impact on the picture. (It's also worth mentioning that the dejudder processing on the 240Hz TVs we tested so far wasn't any better--or worse--than than the dejudder on 120Hz TVs).

All that said, when it comes to motion blur, not every set of eyes and every brain is created equally and, as Katzmaier points out, "Some viewers can perceive motion blur in fast-moving objects on standard 60Hz [LCD] models (motion blur like this isn't an issue with plasma or other display types, whether 60Hz or otherwise, because they use different methods to create the illusion of motion)."

To reduce blurring, most 120Hz LCD displays use a system called MEMC (motion estimation and motion compensation) to slip in a new frame between each of the original frames. The end result is one extra frame for every true frame.

You'd think, then, that a 240Hz TV would just double up to achieve an even more blur-free picture. Alas, it's a little more complicated than that. The problem is there are actually two different types of 240Hz, including one that doesn't bill itself as true 240Hz but rather as a "240 effect." Here's a breakdown of the two versions and which companies employ them.

  • MEMC (motion estimation-motion compensation): Both Sony and Samsung 240Hz sets use MEMC to basically double the 120Hz process described above. However, instead of getting one extra frame for each "true" frame, you actually get three extra frames. (See reviews of the Sony KDL-52XBR7, the Sony KDL-XBR9 series and the Samsung LNB750 series).
  • Scanning backlight (240 effect): LG, Toshiba, and Vizio use what's called "scanning backlight" technology. Such TVs use MEMC once to get to 120Hz, but instead of doubling the interpolation, a backlight flashes on and off very quickly to achieve what Toshiba calls a "240Hz effect." LG, for its part, fails to make that distinction and uses the 240Hz term without qualification to describe its scanning-backlight models

After having reviewed three 240Hz TVs that use MEMC and one, the Toshiba 47ZV650U, using the scanning backlight, Katzmaier reports that the MEMC version of 240Hz is slightly superior at reducing blur. But when he says that, he's referring to test patterns where models from Sony and Samsung scored slightly better than the Toshiba. MEMC displays delivered between 900 and 1,000 lines of motion resolution, which matches the result of a typical plasma, while the Toshiba scored between 800 and 900. But again, watching everyday material, whether it be from a Blu-ray movie or HDTV content from your cable or satellite provider, he and I both maintain that the difference between having a 120Hz LCD TV and a 240Hz TV is virtually imperceptible. In other words, superiority is a very relative term in this instance.

In terms of what kind of premium you'll pay for a 240Hz TV over a 120Hz model, you're currently looking at somewhere between $200 and $400, and we expect that by next year the gap will be even smaller. So, is it worth the premium?

At this point, the answer is probably no. Objectively, in lab tests, you can't dispute the fact that 240Hz does seem to reduce motion blur. But in real-world terms it doesn't amount to much, if anything. But as I always say, if you want the latest and greatest spec--and don't mind paying a little extra--go for it.

Feel free to comment.

David Carnoy
[reviews.cnet.com]

16 Ekim 2011 Pazar

LCD Buying Guide Article

High Definition vs. Standard Definition

Before we begin, we need to establish a couple of basic terms. The HD in HDTV stands for high definition. In comparison, those old boxy TVs that we grew up with are standard definition, (SD), though they were never called that because there was no HD.

Without be too technical or exact, the picture that we see on a TV screen is made up of thousands of little dots called pixels. SD TVs use fewer pixels to create a picture, which means less detail - or definition - than an HDTV. More definition translates to a sharper, cleaner, finer image - a "honey come look at this" humdinger of a picture.

Representation of 1080p, 720p & 480i - More Pixels = Sharper Image

Definition for TVs is stated in terms of resolution. When you go shopping, you will probably run across these two common resolution numbers, 720p and 1080p. As you would guess, a 1080p TV uses more pixels than a 720p TV. Both are considered high definition TVs. (For comparison, standard definition is usually stated as 480i or 480p. I don't even want to get into i, interlace, and p, progressive.) I will discuss resolution as a factor in choosing a TV later.

To an extent, buying TVs in 2009 is easier than it used to be because almost nobody makes standard definition TVs anymore. If you go into a store, you really have to search for them. So if you are buying a new model TV, about your only choice is an HDTV. In a couple of years, we will simply drop the HD tag and go back to calling them TVs.


Picture Quality - Minding Your P's & Q's

For me, the foundation for judging any HDTV is picture quality, which cannot be reduced to one characteristic like sharpness or contrast or color. Picture quality is a combination of all those and more. It's the gestalt.

When you experience great picture quality, you'll nod your head and think, "Damn, that's what all this hubbub about HDTVs is about."

The problem is that picture quality is subjective. For example, I'm particularly sensitive to overly colorful skin tones, so a pleasing picture to me may seem way too desaturated to you.

In my reviews, I will give you my opinion about a TV's picture quality, but you're the one that has to live with your choice. And the real fly in the ointment is that it is really difficult for you to judge a TV's picture quality by strolling through the HDTV aisles in a big box store - even harder online.

If you can, I would suggest that you carry your favorite DVD with you and find a store that you can play it on a few TVs. If nothing else, get your mitts on the remote control and take the TV for a spin around the Setup menu. I know that idea causes dread in the hearts of salesmen; but if you are seriously shopping, then they should be glad to help.

One last thing before we move on. This is a guide. I will not tell you which specific HDTV to buy. There are way too many HDTV models out in the marketplace and I only feel comfortable recommending TVs that I have reviewed. If you want specific suggestions from me, look for the Highly Recommended logo on a review.


Price

Let's continue this HDTV Buying Guide with what is often the major consideration in buying an appliance - cost. For most of us mere mortals, we need to decide how much we want to spend. Without some dollar limit, strolling into the HDTV section of the store (whether brick and mortar or online) can lead to a major household budget buster.

I'll discuss price of TVs in terms of screen size, screen type, and screen resolution in the following sections. For now, let's talk about cost, near term and long term. Beyond the price of the TV, before you leave the store you will be accosted with a few other expenses that you should factor in - cables, wall mounts, transportation, installation, and warranties.

Rather than dive into a long discussion on cables or wall mounts at this point, please see the Accessories section at the end of this article.

If you are buying at the local big box store down the freeway, you will have to transport that lovely toy to your house. And if we're talking about any screen much larger than 32", its box probably won't fit into your Prius. It may not even squeeze into your Escalade. Hopefully, you have a good friend with a strong back and a cargo van.

If not, you may want to consider using the store's delivery and installation service. Often installation is priced reasonably and packaged with the TV as an incentive. Do the math, only you can to decide if it is worth it.

Of course, if you are purchasing online, then shipping to your door will be calculated into the final price. Unless it is otherwise stated, don't be surprised if the delivery man tells you that there will be an extra charge for maneuvering the box into your TV room or upstairs into the bedroom.

Most retailers will try to sell you a warranty that can amount to a sizeable chunk of change. The general consensus is that warranties are not a great idea when it comes to TVs. You can read more about warranties in an article. "What's with Warranties?"

Finally, depending on your disposition, when you are buying a big ticket item like an HDTV, negotiation opportunities may arise. With intense competition, the profit margins for retailers on the TVs are fairly thin, but you may find some wiggle room, especially on prices for warranties and installation.

[HDTVsolutuion]
Credit

10 Ekim 2011 Pazartesi

Size Up Your Screen.

Size up your tv screen

After you have your budget squared away, you need to decide how large of a screen you want. Usually, the largest screens cost the most, but regardless, the TV should deliver the right-size picture for where you'll sit relative to the screen. Sitting closer to a smaller TV means you won't have to spend as much on a big screen. But if you sit too close, the picture will look poor.


Wide-screen TV-viewing distances
Nearly every TV sold these days is a wide-screen HDTV, so the chart below only applies to those sets. If you have a regular TV that's not wide screen, the rule of thumb is that you should sit no closer than twice the diagonal measurement in inches. Wide-screen televisions showing high-resolution DVD and HDTV look better than regular sets, allowing you to sit closer and experience a more immersive, theater-like picture.

With wide-screen sets showing DVD or HDTV, you can sit as close as 1.5 times the screen's diagonal measurement and still not notice much of a loss in quality, while sitting farther away than three times the screen size means you're likely to miss out on the immersive feel. Here's a rundown of minimum and maximum recommended viewing distances for wide-screen sets.



16:9 TV diagonal screen size
Min. viewing distance (in feet)
Max. viewing distance (in feet)
26
3.3
6.5
30
3.8
7.6
34
4.3
8.5
42
5.3
10.5
47
5.9
11.8
50
6.3
12.5
55
6.9
12.8
60
7.5
15
65
8.1
16.2

Size and your room
Generally, 30-inch and smaller sets are great for bedrooms or guest rooms but too small for the main living room. Sets with bigger screens are large enough for the whole family to enjoy and will probably be too much for most small bedrooms.

If you're mounting the set inside an entertainment center, be sure it fits in every dimension; also, leave a couple inches on all sides so that the TV has enough ventilation. If you're getting a bigger set, you may want to consider a dedicated stand. Many such stands also include space for your TV-related components, like cable boxes and DVD players.


Screen sizes and display types
CRT tube televisions are a dying breed, and new ones you'll see generally max out at 27 inches. Flat-panel LCDs can range anywhere from 5 inches to more than 100 inches diagonal; plasmas are between 32 and 103 inches; and rear-projection sets start at about 50 inches and go to as large as 73. These different TV types have their own strengths and drawbacks, which we detail in "Four styles of HDTV."